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Necklace: M.18 & A & B-1983

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Object information

Maker(s)

Phillips Brothers (Maker)

Description

Gold and Partabgarh green glass. The necklace is composed of a flexible, woven gold strip, from which are suspended four gold leaves, each attached to a shamrock-shaped pendant of Partabgarh green glass, with chased and pierced gold inlay depicting plants and animals, mounted in gold with rope-twist border. At centre back there is an octagonal clasp of the same materials. The brooch, en suite with the pendants, has a pin-fastening across the back. In original red leather case, the silk lining of the lid of which is printed in gold beneath a crown 'PHILLIPS. / 23 COCKSPUR ST / LONDON'

Notes

History note: Wartski, Grafton Street, London, W1

Legal notes

Given by Mrs J. Hull Grundy

Place(s) associated

  • London ⪼ England

Acquisition and important dates

Method of acquisition: Given (1983) by Hull Grundy, J., Mrs

Dating

Victoria I
Circa 1855 CE - 1869 1869 CE

Note

The glass, Indian; 19th century. The mounts, English, London The firm of Phillips Brothers was one of the most productive and successful London jewellers of the nineteenth century. Their range and variety was unsurpassed and included jewellery in the Italian archaeological style, the Renaissance Revival style (copying the jewels depicted in drawings by artist Hans Holbein, 1497/8-1543), as well as pieces inspired by the jewellery of India and Scandinavia. Phillips was also influenced by the objects discovered by Sir Henry Layard during his excavations at Nimrud, an ancient Assyrian city of Upper Mesopotamia (near modern­day Mosul, Iraq). Phillips was also one of the first to popularise Indian jewellery, taking advantage of the growing interest in the art of India after the magnificent display of Indian craftsmanship at the Great Exhibition (1851) and the publication of Indian designs in Owen Jones’s 'Grammar of Ornament' (1856). Phillips imported particular elements from India and mounted them into settings made to suit Western styles of dress and fashions. The most commonly imported elements were small plaques of Indian glass and gold work, known as theva work (seen here), first made predominantly in the region of Pratapgarh, Rajasthan.

Components of the work

Part: composed of glass ( green, Partabgarh, India) gold Case: composed of leather ( red) Case Lining: composed of silk Necklace: Length 39.5 cm
Brooch: Width 2 cm

Inscription or legends present

  • Text: RP
  • Mark

Inscription present: PHILLIPS./23 COCKSPUR ST/LONDON beneath a crown

  • Text: PHILLIPS./23 COCKSPUR ST/LONDON
  • Location: Inside case lid
  • Print

References and bibliographic entries

Related exhibitions

Identification numbers

Accession number: M.18 & A & B-1983
Primary reference Number: 119116
Stable URI

Audit data

Created: Saturday 6 August 2011 Updated: Thursday 29 October 2020 Last processed: Wednesday 24 March 2021

Associated departments & institutions

Owner or interested party: The Fitzwilliam Museum
Associated department: Applied Arts

Citation for print

This record can be cited in the Harvard Bibliographic style using the text below:

The Fitzwilliam Museum (2020) "Necklace" Web page available at: https://data.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/id/object/119116 Accessed: 2021-11-27 22:54:41

Citation for Wikipedia

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{{cite web|url=https://data.fitzmuseum.cam.ac.uk/id/object/119116|title=Necklace|author=The Fitzwilliam Museum|accessdate=2021-11-27 22:54:41|publisher=The University of Cambridge}}

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